Food preparation
Food played an important part in the Greek mode of
thought. Classicist John Wilkins notes that "in the Odyssey for example,
good men are distinguished from bad and Greeks from foreigners partly in terms
of how and what they ate. Herodotus identified people partly in terms of food
and eating".
Up to the 3rd century BCE, the frugality imposed by
the physical and climatic conditions of the country was held as virtuous. The
Greeks did not ignore the pleasures of eating, but valued simplicity. The rural
writer Hesiod, as cited above, spoke of his "flesh of a heifer fed in the
woods, that has never calved, and of firstling kids" as being the perfect
closing to a day. Nonetheless, Chrysippus is quoted as saying that the best
meal was a free one.
Culinary and gastronomical research was rejected as a
sign of oriental flabbiness: the Persian Empire was considered decadent due to
their luxurious taste, which manifested itself in their cuisine. The Greek
authors took pleasure in describing the table of the Achaemenid Great King and
his court: Herodotus, Clearchus of Soli, Strabo and Ctesias were unanimous in their descriptions.
Fresh fish, one
of the favourite dishes of the Greeks, platter with red figures, c. 350–325
BCE, Louvre
In contrast, Greeks as a whole stressed the austerity
of their own diet. Plutarch tells how the king of Pontus, eager to try the
Spartan "black gruel", bought a Laconian cook; "but had no
sooner tasted it than he found it extremely bad, which the cook observing, told
him, "Sir, to make this broth relish, you should have bathed yourself
first in the river "Evrotas". According to Polyaenus, on discovering
the dining hall of the Persian royal palace, Alexander the Great mocked their
taste and blamed it for their defeat. Pausanias, on discovering the dining
habits of the Persian commander Mardonius, equally ridiculed the Persians,
"who having so much, came to rob the Greeks of their miserable
living".
In consequence of this cult of frugality, and the
diminished regard for cuisine it inspired, the kitchen long remained the domain
of women, free or enslaved. In the classical period, however, culinary
specialists began to enter the written record. Both Aelian and Athenaeus
mention the thousand cooks who accompanied Smindyride of Sybaris on his voyage
to Athens at the time of Cleisthenes, if only disapprovingly. Plato in Gorgias,
mentions "Thearion the cook, Mithaecus the author of a treatise on
Sicilian cooking, and Sarambos the wine merchant; three eminent connoisseurs of
cake, kitchen and wine."Some chefs also wrote treatises on cuisine.
Over time, more and more Greeks presented themselves
as gourmets. From the Hellenistic to the Roman period, the Greeks — at least
the rich — no longer appeared to be any more austere than others. The
cultivated guests of the feast hosted by Athenaeus in the 2nd or 3rd century
devoted a large part of their conversation to wine and gastronomy. They
discussed the merits of various wines, vegetables, and meats, mentioning
renowned dishes (stuffed cuttlefish, red tuna belly, prawns, lettuce watered
with mead) and great cooks such as Soterides, chef to king Nicomedes I of
Bithynia (who reigned from the 279 to 250 BCE). When his master was inland, he
pined for anchovies; Soterides simulated them from carefully carved turnips,
oiled, salted and sprinkled with poppy seeds.Suidas (an encyclopaedia from the
Byzantine period) mistakenly attributes this exploit to the celebrated Roman
gourmet Apicius (1st century BCE) — which may be taken as evidence that the
Greeks had reached the same level as the Romans.
Social dining
Banqueter
playing the kottabos, a playful subversion of the libation, ca. 510 BCE, Louvre
As with modern dinner parties, the host could simply
invite friends or family; but two other forms of social dining were central in
ancient Greece: the entertainment of the all-male symposium, and the
obligatory, regimental syssitia.
Symposium
The symposium (συμπόσιον symposion), traditionally
translated as "banquet", but more literally "gathering of
drinkers", was one of the preferred pastimes for the Greeks. It consisted
of two parts: the first dedicated to food, generally rather simple, and a
second part dedicated to drinking. However, wine was consumed with the food,
and the beverages were accompanied by snacks (τραγήματα tragēmata) such as
chestnuts, beans, toasted wheat, or honey cakes, all intended to absorb alcohol
and extend the drinking spree.
The second part was inaugurated with a libation, most
often in honor of Dionysus, followed by conversation or table games, such as Kottabos.
The guests would recline on couches (κλίναι klinai) low tables held the food or
game boards. Dancers, acrobats, and musicians would entertain the wealthy
banqueters. A "king of the banquet" was drawn by lots; he had the
task of directing the slaves as to how strong to mix the wine.
With the exception of Courtesans, the banquet was
strictly reserved for men. It was an essential element of Greek social life.
Great feasts could only be afforded by the rich; in most Greek homes, religious
feasts or family events were the occasion of more modest banquets. The banquet
became the setting of a specific genre of literature, giving birth to Plato's
Symposium, Xenophon's work of the same name, the Table Talk of Plutarch's
Moralia, and the Deipnosophists (Banquet of the Learned) of Athenaeus.
Syssitia
The syssitia (τα συσσίτια ta
syssitia) were mandatory meals shared by social or religious groups for men and
youths, especially in Crete and Sparta. They were referred to variously as
hetairia, pheiditia, or andreia (literally, "belonging to men"). They
served as both a kind of aristocratic club and as a military mess. Like the
symposium, the syssitia was the exclusive domain of men —
although some references have been found to all-female syssitia. Unlike the
symposium, these meals were hallmarked by simplicity and temperance.
Dinners
The Greeks had three to four meals a day. Breakfast (ακρατισμός
akratismos) consisted of barley bread dipped in wine (άκρατος
akratos), sometimes complemented by figs or olives. They also made pancakes
called τηγανίτης (tēganitēs), ταγηνίτης (tagēnitēs) or ταγηνίας (tagēnias).
A quick lunch (άριστον
ariston) was taken around noon or early afternoon. Dinner (δείπνον
deipnon), the most important meal of the day, was generally taken at
nightfall.An additional light meal (εσπέρισμα
hesperisma) was sometimes taken in the late afternoon. Ἀριστόδειπνον / aristodeipnon, literally
"lunch-dinner", was served in the late afternoon instead of dinner.
http://el.wikipedia.org/wiki/Διατροφή_στην_αρχαία_Ελλάδα
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_Greek_cuisine
http://hellenicpsyche.blogspot.gr/2012/10/archaeology-of-food-gastronomy-in.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_Greek_cuisine
http://hellenicpsyche.blogspot.gr/2012/10/archaeology-of-food-gastronomy-in.html
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