Turks are passionate about food; indeed, Turkish cuisine is world renowned
for its diversity and flavour, drawing influences from all corners of the
former Ottoman Empire, and each region today boasting its own specialities:
generally, food is spicier and richer the further south and east you travel,
whilst in the west, olive oil, seafood and vegetable dishes are more prevalent.
Food in Turkey is first and foremost a social occasion and always to be
enjoyed with gusto. From home-cooked meals shared by family and friends to
symbolic religious or celebratory feasts and the street theatrics of roadside
sellers, food is closely intertwined with the fabric of society. Turkey is also
self-sufficient in food production with surplus for export, meaning that fresh,
local ingredients and seasonal produce are at the heart of its cooking culture.
Eating Out in Turkey
Restaurants are very much part of Turkish cultural life, with a huge array
of regional varieties, styles and locations at your fingertips, from gourmet
restaurants and Bosphorus-side cafes in the heart of Istanbul to charming
coastal fish restaurants, traditional Turkish kebap houses and lokantas where
home made dishes are the order of the day, Turkey is a food-lover’s paradise
for all tastes and budgets.
Eating three meals a day is the norm in Turkey, starting with a Turkish
breakfast, typically consisting of bread, beyaz peynir (white cheese, similar
to feta), butter, honey or jam and Turkish tea – but will also often include
boiled eggs or menemen (omelette), olives, tomato & cucumber salad and
sliced beef sausages. A main meal, eaten either at lunch or dinner, will
usually start with soup or meze, a selection of small cold and hot dishes which
are made for sharing – anything from hummus and dolma (anything stuffed with
rice such as vine leaves or peppers) to kalamar (fried calamari) and aubergine
dips.
The main
course is usually meat or fish, but at home, vegetable dishes and stews are
also popular. Bread will always accompany a meal in Turkey, and main courses
are usually served with rice – and a çoban salatası, a “shepherd’s salad” of
tomato, cucumber and onion dressed with olive oil and lemon. Lamb and chicken
are the most popular meats in Turkey, often prepared as kebab (cubes of meat on
a skewer) or köfte, which are like small lamb burgers. Turks are also fond of
stews or sulu yemek (food with sauce). There are restaurants which specialise
in these, usually with large containers of the different varieties on display.
Fish and seafood are also popular in Istanbul and the coastal resorts – and for
the most part, it is simply grilled to bring out its natural flavour.
A meal is often rounded off with a plate of fresh fruit, most of which will
feature karpuz (water melon) and kavun (melon). Those with a sweet tooth will
enjoy the honeyed desserts to follow, of which there are many – but baklava
(layers of filo pastry filled with nuts) is perhaps the best known. There are
also many fruit and milk based puddings to enjoy in Turkey, as well as the
famed Turkish delight, best washed down with black tea or thick Turkish coffee.
Fast Food
Although much of Turkish food culture revolves around sit-down meals, food
on the go is also popular for snacking – although not as a means to replace
sit-down meals with family and friends. Börek (filled fried or baked filo
pastry), simit (bread ring) and poğagça (buns) are popular snacks, as are those
bought from the array of street vendors: from döner kebab and pide or lahmacun
(types of Turkish pizza) to roasted chestnuts, stuffed mussels and corn on the
cob.
Drinks
Alcoholic Drinks
The traditional tipple is rakı, a clear, strong aniseed based spirit,
sometimes known as “lion’s milk”; turning cloudy when water, ice or soda is
added. Rakı is so entwined with eating meze, that the meze spread is often
called a rakı table.
Did you know that wine production is said to date back to 4000 BC in
Eastern Turkey? Today, Turkey is undergoing a renaissance in wine-making, with
some excellent results in recent years from the big domestic players such as
Doluca and Kavaklidere, as well as a whole host of newer brands and grape
varieties from Cappadocia and the Aegean regions. Those who prefer beer will
not be disappointed with the locally produced Efes pilsner and its light, dark
and extra strong varieties, now exported around the world, as well as the Troy,
Tuborg, and an increasing range of international brands. Locally produced
vodka, brandy, whisky and gin are also available at much lower prices than
imported brands, but can be somewhat rough and ready.
Non-Alcoholic Drinks
Popular soft drinks include fruit juices such as vişne (sour cherry juice)
and şeftali (peach) – and ayran, a salted yoghurt drink, often enjoyed with
meals at home, in restaurants or as a thirst-quencher from the corner shop.
Bottled mineral water or su is cheap and easily available and fizzy drinks are
sold everywhere.
Turkish tea or çay is flavoursome and aromatic when freshly brewed. This is
done in a combined kettle/tea pot placed directly on the hob and drunk from
small tulip-shaped glasses, always black and usually with plenty of sugar.
Convenience however is catching on to the cities, and nowadays, unless you
specifically ask for brewed Turkish tea, many hotels and restaurants will
present you with a teabag in a cup and saucer. Herbal teas are also widely
available – kuşburnu çayı (rosehip) adı çayı (sage tea) and ıhlamur çayı
(linden flower tea) being the more common varieties.
Introduced to Europe via the Ottoman Empire in the late 19th Century,
Turkish coffee is an indulgent pleasure and the perfect way to finish off a
good meal. When ordering a Türk kahvesi, you will be asked how you take it –
sade (no sugar), orta (with some sugar) or şekerli (sweet), as it is brewed
with the sugar before serving in small cups. You may even find a local willing
to tell your fortune from it, a popular custom across Turkey. Although in more
rural parts you will often find instant coffee being served, cities are
catching up with Italian coffee trends and in many of the more modern
establishments you will find the usual fare of lattes and cappuccinos alongside
the traditional varieties.
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